Where Grafenegg slöws down

Single Vineyard Summit5 min read

AuthorHarald Scholl

For me, the annual ÖTW presentation in Grafenegg doesn’t begin with the first sip or the concert in the Wolkenturm, but with a detail that seems almost inconspicuous at first glance and yet reveals a surprising amount about the quality of this event: the tables. They are so spacious that I can actually set myself up there. Laptop, notes, documents, tasting glasses – everything finds its place. Nothing needs to be moved, rearranged or balanced. Right from this very first moment, you get the feeling that you’re not just here to taste wine, but to work with real focus and enjoyment.


A place for precision, exchange and atmosphere

Perhaps that is precisely what I appreciate so much about Grafenegg. This format gives me space. Space to work, to compare, to reflect. I can put together my flights in whatever way makes sense for my tasting and my editorial output. By region, by winemaker, by grape variety, or based on a question that is currently on my mind. That makes the work precise. I can grasp differences more clearly, better understand developments and identify connections more precisely. For me, this represents a significant difference in quality. I don’t follow a rigid order, but can find my own way through the wines. Sometimes I’m particularly interested in how a terroir is reflected in the glass. Sometimes I focus on a winery’s distinctive style. And sometimes it’s the grape variety that guides me through the day.

In Grafenegg, all this is possible because the conditions are just right. The tasting is clearly structured yet open enough to allow for a very focused approach. What makes this setting particularly valuable to me is the direct contact with the winemakers. They bring the wines themselves, and that is precisely what transforms the tasting. The initial impression in the glass becomes a conversation. An observation turns into an exchange. I can ask questions, reflect on impressions and learn about the background. Often, a wine reveals itself even more deeply in this way, because suddenly it is not just the result that becomes visible, but also the journey to get there. For me, this is one of the most wonderful aspects of this presentation. Wine thus remains not merely an object of tasting, but becomes an experience of origin, attitude and decision-making.

Whenever I return from Grafenegg, I never just bring home tasting notes, but always impressions, thoughts and conversations that linger in my mind.

Harald Scholl

Added to this is the special atmosphere of this place. Grafenegg possesses a tranquillity that is conducive to concentration, and at the same time a cultural openness that broadens one’s horizons. I therefore do not see the supporting programme as an afterthought, but as an integral part of the whole. It combines information and culture in a way that feels effortless and is all the more compelling for it. Nothing pushes itself to the fore, and yet everything contributes to making these days more than just a professional event.

Perhaps that is precisely what makes this annual event so appealing to me. It creates the ideal conditions for focused work, whilst at the same time leaving room for encounters, conversation and a special atmosphere. I never return home from Grafenegg with just tasting notes, but always with impressions, thoughts and conversations that linger. That is why this event is far more than just a fixed date in my calendar. It is one of those rare occasions where professional focus and personal enrichment come together quite naturally. And that is exactly what I look forward to anew every year.

About the author

Harald Scholl

Harald Scholl

Editor-in-chief VINUM Deutschland

Harald Scholl is editor-in-chief of VINUM Deutschland and the VINUM Wine Guide Germany. For many years, he has been one of the leading voices in German-language wine journalism. As an author, wine taster and head of the judging panel, he combines journalistic experience with in-depth wine expertise. His areas of responsibility also include competitions such as the Riesling Champion, the German Red Wine Prize and the Sparkling Wine Award.

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