Why Classify Vineyards?
Erste Lagen7 min read
AuthorMichael Moosbrugger
Erste Lagen
7 min read
AuthorMichael Moosbrugger
The question of whether classifications are necessary in the world of wine has long been a topic of discussion among producers, merchants and wine experts. In Austria, there has been intense debate over the past few decades regarding the pros and cons of this issue.
From today’s perspective, it seems almost incomprehensible that the founders of the ÖTW even turned their attention to the subject of vineyard classification. In the early 1990s, Burgundy was a renowned wine region, but it also had an image characterised by inconsistency and opacity. At that time, Bordeaux and Tuscany, with new star wines such as Tignanello and Sassicaia, served as role models on which all eyes were fixed. So why on earth should one follow the Côte d’Or model?
One often heard the argument that classifications are simply no longer appropriate in this day and age. They smack of the 19th century and simply do not fit into the fabric of a 21st-century individualistic-liberal society. Consequently, these instruments are authoritarian, according to the line of argument frequently put forward. However, the ÖTW was by no means concerned with such issues, but purely with the necessity for the sake of trade and consumers.
“The work of the ÖTW is based on the conviction that the collective marketing of wine within a winegrowers’ cooperative is the most socially responsible and democratic form of wine marketing.”
Marketing based on geographical origin offers many advantages to winegrowers in a particular region. By using geographical terms collectively when marketing their wine, they can raise awareness of these terms more easily – particularly within small-scale structures – both in the market and amongst wine lovers. Less well-known winegrowers in particular benefit from the groundwork laid by established wineries that have already established these geographical terms in the market.
However, marketing based on origin also has its drawbacks. It is worth noting that at the regional level, the number of terms used is still relatively manageable (Austria currently has 18 regional appellations (DAC)). At the local level, we already have 900 terms across Austria, and at the vineyard site (Rieden) level, we are talking about around 4,300 terms. Even for Austrian experts, it is a challenge to keep track of all this; for specialists abroad, it is virtually impossible.
The great advantage of a classification system is that, when communicating globally, it is easier to convey categories (classes) and their characteristics, as well as the quality they represent, than it is to list the large number of place names or vineyard names contained within those classes. If a community succeeds in defining categories (classes) of wines with a quality standard, then communication with customers – especially when the classification system involves concepts already familiar from other regions – becomes many times easier. When a sommelier in London, Paris, New York or Tokyo approaches a table and presents a ‘Ried Heiligenstein’, it is much easier for them to convey the quality promise of this wine category to the guests, even if they have never heard of a ‘Heiligenstein’ before.
Although they do not know exactly which wine they will receive, information such as ‘Erste Lage’ or ‘Große Lage’ allows them to at least gauge the quality standards of the wine in question. In the long term, this serves as a valuable guide at every stage of the wine distribution chain. This is why classifications have proved so successful in France: regions with classifications have fared better than those without.
“In the world of fine wine, a classification system provides guidance in an increasingly complex market. It brings together historical knowledge, makes quality comparable and safeguards provenance. Yet its greatest value lies not in hierarchies, but in transparency: it helps collectors, merchants and winemakers to demonstrate excellence in a way that is easy to understand, without limiting the diversity of great terroirs.”
About the author
Michael Moosbrugger
Obmann ÖTW Bundesverband, ÖTW Winzer
Michael Moosbrugger (born 1966) grew up in the ski resort of Lech am Arlberg, where his family runs the Relais & Châteaux Hotel Gasthof Post. After his brother Florian took over the family business, he began his training in the wine industry in 1992 at the Fritz Salomon and Josef Jamek wineries. In 1996, he took over responsibility for the Schloss Gobelsburg winery. As a member of the ÖTW association, the focus of production was systematically shifted to origin based wines. Under his leadership, the winery has been honoured with numerous awards, such as ‘Falstaff Winery of the Year’, the ‘Golden Glass’ in Sweden, and ‘Top 100 Winery of the Year’ (Wine & Spirits magazine, USA).
Since 2007, he has been chairman of the ÖTW association and developed a vineyard classification model for Austria.
Michael Moosbrugger lives in Gobelsburg with his wife Eva and their three children.
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