Why people don’t speak at the world’s best wine tasting.

Why people don’t speak at the world’s best wine tasting.

Single Vineyard Summit4 min read

AuthorDorli Muhr

At the Single Vineyard Summit at Schloss Grafenegg, opinions on the wines often vary widely. This is only to be expected, as taste is, after all, a highly personal matter. However, the participants all agree on one thing: “This is the best wine tasting in the world.” And this is despite the fact that wine is usually associated with socialising, whereas at the Single Vineyard Summit, no talking is allowed.


4 questions I asked myself after returning from the Single Vineyard Summit 2025.

Under what conditions can great wines be identified?

‘Silent Tasting’ is the motto at the Single Vineyard Summit. This professional tasting is all about silence and concentration, swift, precise service and a bespoke selection, as the specialist audience wishes to taste as many wines as possible and evaluate them accurately. After all, ratings, purchasing decisions and the selection for discerning wine lists are derived from this.

“With the Silent Tasting, the ÖTW creates a truly unconventional tasting experience that breaks away from the notion of wine as a social medium and seeks to determine, independently of that, what quality really amounts to.”

Dorli Muhr

Is it the structured framework or the great freedom of this tasting that makes the difference?

Just like in a classroom, the world’s leading wine critics sit in fixed seats for several days in the spacious former riding school at Grafenegg Castle. Using small order slips, they each select six wines from the list of some 600 single-vineyard wines laid out before them. The order, composition and pace of the tasting are left entirely up to them. Some start at number 1 and work their way through in sets of six to the final wine. Others sort the tasting list by grape variety first, or taste wines from each estate in batches.

“Tailoring the tasting to your own preferences allows much more scope for your own perceptions, whilst also being a way of showing incredible appreciation for the wines being tasted.”

Dorli Muhr

Whatever they write on their order forms, the six wines will be served to them in no time at all. Whether they taste 200 wines in a morning or just 80 over the course of a whole day – to allow each wine time to develop in the glass and reveal every nuance – is entirely up to each of the more than 120 tasters.

Tasting Days

4

Seats per Slot

120

Side Events

8

In any case, it is clear that this silent tasting deliberately breaks away from the traditional tasting format – with a shared table, a set order, a set pace and direct interaction with other tasters – and instead focuses on concentration, precision and the individual freedom of the tasters.

What is the significance of this multitude of precise assessments, which are made in silence over the course of several days?

Once the international wine industry has spent several days gaining an overview of Austria’s most exciting wines, before they are released onto the market, the real hard work begins for the traditional wineries themselves:

This is because the experts’ assessments provide vital input for the vineyard classification, which is now entering its next phase. There are currently 145 ‘Erste Lagen’ (Premier Cru Vineyards), considered the best in the country. However, in the next step, the very best will emerge from among these. These will then be awarded the ‘Grosse Lage’ (Grand Cru) classification. But which vineyard sites are in the running? The ratings from the Single Vineyard Summit are compiled into a huge spreadsheet, and the ratings are now being examined vineyard by vineyard.

After all, for a Grand Cru, it is not enough for a single wine to be outstanding; rather, this quality must be confirmed in a tasting across all wines from that specific terroir.

And what about socialising?

It is precisely this interplay between silence and conversation that makes this tasting so special. The evenings are all about socialising. That is when wine really comes into its own: it brings people together, encourages conversation and spreads cheer. Added to this are the many friendships that this industry fosters. At concerts, dinners, vineyard picnics, or simply over a delicious glass of beer – something that’s never to be missed after an intensive wine tasting.

About the author

Dorli Muhr

Dorli Muhr

ÖTW Winermaker, Entrepreneur

The Austrian culinary and communications expert Dorli Muhr (born 1965) has been at the helm of the internationally renowned agency Wine+Partners since 1991; the agency specialises in strategic communications for wine, gastronomy and tourism.

With her winery at the Spitzerberg in Carnuntum, she ranks among the leading figures in Austrian viticulture and is a member of the ÖTW. Her wines have shaped the international image of elegant Austrian red wines.


With the support of the European Union
WIR leben Land - Common Agricultural Policy AustriaFinanziert von der Europäischen Union
Müller GlasVöslauerZalto und Denkart